· 5 minute read
The Horses' Waterfall: how to get there, how long it takes
The Horses' Waterfall, Cascada Cailor in Romanian, is the place almost everyone who comes to Borșa goes to see. The water drops in steps from around 90 metres, down a limestone wall in the Rodna Mountains. From the guesthouse to the chairlift that takes you close to it is 14 kilometres.
What the Horses' Waterfall is
Water gathers in a glacial cirque and spills in several steps over a limestone cliff called Podul Cailor, the Horses' Bridge. Sources give heights between 80 and 95 metres; most say 90. Wikipedia calls it the largest waterfall in Romania, and the Borșa article says it is the most visited sight in Maramureș, with more than 70,000 visitors a year.
The name comes from a local legend: bears are said to have cornered a herd of horses on a narrow ledge above the falls, and the horses fell. Since then the waterfall and the places around it have carried the horses' name.
The easy way: by chairlift
From the guesthouse, drive to the Borșa ski resort (Complexul Turistic Borșa), 14 kilometres by road, about 25 minutes. The resort's chairlift, running since 1986, climbs towards the plateau above the ski slope. From the top, a footpath leads down to the foot of the waterfall. The walk takes about half an hour, up to 40 minutes according to some sources.
The chairlift timetable changes from season to season. Before you set out, ask Maria or check at the resort.
On foot from Borșa
If you'd rather walk up without the chairlift, there's the forest road, marked with a red triangle according to a guide published by Orange. The same guide says you can drive about 5 kilometres, then walk another 3, with 200 metres of climb. Check the markings on an up-to-date map before you go.
For a long day out, some hikers do a loop of more than 20 kilometres from the resort, past the waterfall and the Gărgălău refuge. It's a full mountain day, only for people who are fit.
When to go
The falls carry the most water in spring and early summer, when the snow melts on the ridges. In autumn the forests around turn yellow. In winter the path can be icy, so you'll need good boots and patience.
What to bring
- proper hiking shoes, not trainers: the path is rocky and rooty
- a jacket: it's colder up there than in Borșa
- water and something to eat
- a charged phone: the mountain rescue service answers on 0SALVAMONT (+40 725 826 668) and 112
Salvamont Borșa asks visitors to stay on marked trails and not to drink alcohol on the mountain.
After the waterfall
If you have time left, drive on along the DN18 to the Prislop Pass, 27 kilometres from the guesthouse, on the road to Bucovina. In the evening, the guesthouse hot tub is good for tired legs. For more ideas, read things to do in Maramureș, starting from Borșa.